Tuesday, July 31, 2007

We´re Biking Now!

Paul and I are finally on the road. We left this morning from Burguette and headed off to our first end point: Puente La Reina.
We could not ask for better weather. The morning was crisp with beautiful blue skies. We started our morning following the actual camino, which is a path that winds through the countryside. Man calls it a path, nature says not so fast. The way was very rough. The trail was barely two feet wide, rutted with shale rocks jutting out and many a tree root. Paul and I humbly walked a good portion of the way, but we were in good company. Many fellow bike riders were having to do the same. Walking pilgrims smugly passed us with a nod of the head and what I considered a smirk escaping their lips. We went about 3 miles in an hour and quickly decided to go to the road instead.
We left the camino at this point, due to recommendations by previous biking pilgrims. We returned to a road we took on our previous journey which went through a magnificent tree-lined valley along the Erro River. While the river itself was small, you could see how it´s efforts over the millenia carved out the valley, slowly but surely. The ride was gorgeous. Along the way, we were passed by quite a few older gentlemen out for their morning exercise, decked out in their finest riding regalia. In this land of Alberto Contador, current winner of the Tour de France, biking is a passion and we saw the backside of quite a few enthusiasts.
Leaving the valley, we wound our way through the countryside which was start to bake under the hot sun. It felt as if someone left the oven door open. Going downhill, besides providing rest for legs after climbing, also provided a cool breeze.
We stopped for a bite to eat at what could only be described as a Spanish truck stop with a homey touch. All the tables were covered in a green checkered table cloth and filled with loud, boisterous working class men taking a break from their outdoor jobs. Spanish meals usually have one price for two courses, bread, a bottle of wine and water and your choice of dessert or coffee. As this was a country-side establishment, the menu consisted of a lot of game or river fish that was a little bit to heavy for the heat. However, Paul and I didn´t want to order just a side salad or something smaller since the place was so busy, so we went for the whole meal. Trying to ride our bikes after such a heavy meal was not the best, especially in the heat. We vowed to go lighter next time.
We stopped quite a few times along the road to take pictures of the many breathtaking scenes we encountered: the vast field of sunflowers, the golden ochre expanse of the recently shorn hay. Nature in all its glory. We couldn´t have asked for a better day to ride after our delay of yesterday.
We arrived to our day´s destination around 4:00 in the afternoon after 7 hours or so of biking. We checked into our hotel, a lovely restored building filled with antiques, stone walls and lots of charm. Of course, we are on the third floor and did not realize there was an elevator until after we hauled our bags up the three flights.
Our first goal was to wash off the road´s dust and get our clothes washed as well. It´s quite a picture to see us handwashing the day´s clothing in the sink (Paul´s choice) or the tub (mine). Once done, they decorate our lovely window looking out on the tiny main street of Puente La Reina. After our chores, we promptly collapsed for a well-earned nap.
Evening finds the air cooling off. We´ve headed down for a beer or two and some dinner, before we turn in for the night.

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