Sunday, August 12, 2007
The Big Climb!
Paul and I awoke with great anticipation for the big climb up to O Cebriero. It's a straight climb of about 10 kilometers. On our last trip, I remember it being a brutal day of pushing my bike uphill for four or five hours. It was very cool and the mountain was covered in mist. Paul waited for quite a while at the top while I slowly made my way up the mountain. On this trip, either I was in better shape (again, I like to think the ten extra pounds I am carrying are all muscle) or the angels and my dad were pushing me up the mountain. The day was not nearly as hard as I expected and I arrived at the top about 45 minutes after Paul. I only had to push my bike twice and for only short periods. I was astounded as was Paul. Perhaps I had trained better than I thought. We took in the sights at the top and celebrated with those we met as we climbed up together. It is something joyous to celebrate a shared effort with complete strangers who become instant friends as you climb together. What Paul and I had forgotten is that the arrival at O Cebriero is not the end. It marks the beginning of Galicia, which is a region of lots of ups and downs. The area is very hilly so there is no real respite from a hard day's ride. Following another set of climbs, we finally began our descent into Galicia. Paul took the downhill carefully as he was nervous about the performance of his bike. The back wheel was rattling something awful and he had to loosen his brakes to make the climb. Our goal for the night was Samos, a small town with an impressive monastery and a 900 year old church that is quite a sight to see. It's a good thing we saw it on our last trip because there was not a room to be found in Samos. After our long day of climbing, we were forced to continue onto the next town. We felt reasonably assured we would find something there since it was a larger city. We couldn't have been more wrong. Like Mary and Joseph, we went on a hunt for a room, only to be told time and again, there was no room. We were very nervous at this point. It was getting late and we were tired. After getting a list of numbers to call, we finally found a place 5 kilometers out the city. With trepidation, we had no choice but bike on. As we pedaled on, first downhill and then up, we started wondering whether five really meant ten kilometers and if we were ever going to arrive. We did and quickly settled in for the night. Our clerk who checked us in, became our candidate for the hardest working man in Spain. After we cleaned up, we headed down to the bar for a drink. It turns out he was also on bartending duty. As the restaurant filled up with the dinner crowd, it became clear that he was also the waiter. In between orders at the bar and in the dining room, he also answered the phone and continued to check in arriving guests. When he took our dinner order, I jokingly asked if he was also cooking. With a bemused smile, he said sometimes. When we went down to breakfast the next morning, there he was again.
Saturday, August 11, 2007
The Shortest Day
We left Ponferrada for what would be our shortest ride yet. Our next destination was only 26 kilometers away. However, it was a beautiful day. We are in the heart of the Bierrzo wine valley. It is lush and filled with gorgeous rolling hills filled with vines. We followed the camino trail through the vineyards soaking in the green hills and blue skies. As we made our entrance into Villafranca, Paul started noticing a problem with his bike. His gears seemed to be slipping, especially on climbs. It was in this same city four years ago that Paul had to have his bike repaired. After we checked into a our hotel de jour, we took his bike to the local bike shop. We explained the problem and the owner said he would take a look at it but to come back later as he was leaving for lunch. We did the same and then we set off to explore the tiny town. Villafranca sits nestled at the base of the mountains which separate the provinces of Leon and Galicia. Those mountains were our goal for tomorrow. For tonight. We just wanted a good meal. Unfortunately, that was not to be the case. We thought we had chosen well and the evening started off well. Sitting next to us were the first Americans we have met on the camino. Chris and Nora were a young couple from New York who were walking the Camino for the second time. They had done the first half last year and were finishing up this year. They were a delightful couple to chat with while
Waiting for service which was slow even for Spanish standards. We finally received our meals which frankly we both thought was the worst of our trip so far. We had ordered steaks with a sauce, which had been our standard dinner on the trip.Our's were covered in such a thick sauce which I think was meant to disguise how undercooked the meat was. I don't mind rare, but this was a 1/2 inch slab that was raw. When I complained, our snooty young heroin-addicted looking waiter, informed me that it was prepared as it should be. I was too tired to argue with him. But Paul and I were not happy. We paid our bill grudgingly and headed off to get some rest. Tomorrow, the big climb of the Camino beckoned.
Waiting for service which was slow even for Spanish standards. We finally received our meals which frankly we both thought was the worst of our trip so far. We had ordered steaks with a sauce, which had been our standard dinner on the trip.Our's were covered in such a thick sauce which I think was meant to disguise how undercooked the meat was. I don't mind rare, but this was a 1/2 inch slab that was raw. When I complained, our snooty young heroin-addicted looking waiter, informed me that it was prepared as it should be. I was too tired to argue with him. But Paul and I were not happy. We paid our bill grudgingly and headed off to get some rest. Tomorrow, the big climb of the Camino beckoned.
Thursday, August 09, 2007
A Relatively Easy Day
The weather was once again cool when we left Astorga in the morning. We had turned in early, no late evening for us on this day. We had toured the Bishop's
Palace, the Cathedral and the Museum of Chocolate. In the morning we felt well-rested and ready to take on our first major climb, a 6 kilometer climb that I remember as being quite daunting on our last trip. Whether it was the extra rest or perhaps better preparation, the long-anticipated climb did not turn out to be as difficult as expected. I made the climb on my own power. I would pedal for awhile and then take a break by the side of the road, taking in the stunning scenery. As we climbed, the area became very arid with lots of vibrant purple heather, sage and other scrub brush dominating the landscape. I made my way up the mountain slowly but I made it nonetheless. I met Paul at the Cruz de Hierro (The Iron Cross). It has become somewhat of a Mount Everest. Pilgrims leave all kinds of momentos at the base of the cross which soars some 20 feet high. Stones carried by pilgrims signifying sins or memories of loved ones are left as are other items such as worn shoes, flags, pictures and notes of importance and personal meaning. We climbed up to the very top and then began the most exhilirating ride down the mountain. The two-lane hairpin road led us down a hair-raising descent of nearly 45 kilometers an hour. Fear of death kept me pumping my brakes all the way down. Paul said the experience was like a great downhill ski run. We were rewarded for our morning efforts with a stop at Molinaseca, a quaint little town at the bottom of the mountain. You cross over a stone bridge. Underneath is a small pool where pilgrims can clean off after a long climb down. Since the wind did it for us, we chose to get a beer and bite instead. However, after watching and listening to the continual splashing of the pilgrims, we walked over to dip our toes in the pool. Pretty soon, Paul decided to take his shirt off and jump in. The water was pretty brisk but refreshing. His gusto convinced a young Italian girl who had been on the fence to ahead and jump in. Her screams let everyone know how cold the water was.
We headed off to our destination of the day: Ponferrada. A Templar castle indicated our arrival. We walked our bikes into the antigua casco (the old town) and began a search for a hotel as we did not have any reservations. The first two places were full but the third had an available room. We cleaned up quickly as there was an exhibit that we wanted to see. The cathedral was hosting an exhibit called "Yo Camino". Art collections from around Spain have been put together to explain the religious significance that is the Camino de Santiago. The exhibit was amazing. We listened to a guided tour that described the art through the centuries depicting the history of the Church and the Camino de Santiago and how that art was used to teach. The curators of the exhibit did an amazing job. We did our usual routine of drinks and dinner in the plaza and then headed off to bed.
Palace, the Cathedral and the Museum of Chocolate. In the morning we felt well-rested and ready to take on our first major climb, a 6 kilometer climb that I remember as being quite daunting on our last trip. Whether it was the extra rest or perhaps better preparation, the long-anticipated climb did not turn out to be as difficult as expected. I made the climb on my own power. I would pedal for awhile and then take a break by the side of the road, taking in the stunning scenery. As we climbed, the area became very arid with lots of vibrant purple heather, sage and other scrub brush dominating the landscape. I made my way up the mountain slowly but I made it nonetheless. I met Paul at the Cruz de Hierro (The Iron Cross). It has become somewhat of a Mount Everest. Pilgrims leave all kinds of momentos at the base of the cross which soars some 20 feet high. Stones carried by pilgrims signifying sins or memories of loved ones are left as are other items such as worn shoes, flags, pictures and notes of importance and personal meaning. We climbed up to the very top and then began the most exhilirating ride down the mountain. The two-lane hairpin road led us down a hair-raising descent of nearly 45 kilometers an hour. Fear of death kept me pumping my brakes all the way down. Paul said the experience was like a great downhill ski run. We were rewarded for our morning efforts with a stop at Molinaseca, a quaint little town at the bottom of the mountain. You cross over a stone bridge. Underneath is a small pool where pilgrims can clean off after a long climb down. Since the wind did it for us, we chose to get a beer and bite instead. However, after watching and listening to the continual splashing of the pilgrims, we walked over to dip our toes in the pool. Pretty soon, Paul decided to take his shirt off and jump in. The water was pretty brisk but refreshing. His gusto convinced a young Italian girl who had been on the fence to ahead and jump in. Her screams let everyone know how cold the water was.
We headed off to our destination of the day: Ponferrada. A Templar castle indicated our arrival. We walked our bikes into the antigua casco (the old town) and began a search for a hotel as we did not have any reservations. The first two places were full but the third had an available room. We cleaned up quickly as there was an exhibit that we wanted to see. The cathedral was hosting an exhibit called "Yo Camino". Art collections from around Spain have been put together to explain the religious significance that is the Camino de Santiago. The exhibit was amazing. We listened to a guided tour that described the art through the centuries depicting the history of the Church and the Camino de Santiago and how that art was used to teach. The curators of the exhibit did an amazing job. We did our usual routine of drinks and dinner in the plaza and then headed off to bed.
Tuesday, August 07, 2007
Another Day, Another Plaza
The end of today's ride is the town of Astorga. It should have been a 45 kilometer ride, but it turned out to be more like 60.
After breakfast at the hotel, our first stop before leaving Leon was the post office. We of course had to mail ahead to Santiago Paul's four new pairs of shoes which weighed would have added 5 pounds of weight just as we are reaching our point of true climbing. With the shoes off, we left Leon. It is always a tricky endeavor leaving big cities by bike. The streets are very narrow, cars going to fast for safety. The sidewalks are on option but you are usually confronted by people who stop dead in their tracks to greet that long lost friend they haven't seen since the night before. It makes for a wild ride of dodge-em.Once out of the confines of the city, riding gets easier. However, I have been starting my morning rides with a belly full of butterflies. As I start my riding, I feel much like a student who has passed a test but has to take it again and not sure if they've prepared enough (I haven't). Once I get going I start to feel better. That is until the first incline. As I put my legs into pedaling my bike up the hill, it is almost meditative. However, the words I say over and over again have absolutely nothing to do with prayer. There is a cleansing effect that happens as I emit toxins from my body and my spirit so I guess I am achieving the intent of a true pilgrim.
We went a little out of our way today following a recommended route taken by previous bike riders of the Camino.However, it did not add much in the way of enjoyment and just made our day longer than expected. The day's weather is much cooler than expected making it downright chilly in the evening as we sit having a beer outside the Cathedral and the Bishop's Palace designed by Antonio Gaudi (origin of the word gaudy). As I write, Paul is being thoroughly entertained by several older gentlemen talking with other. Every time the church bells chime, they all check their watches. We plan to head to our room to warm up as it feels more like a late fall evening than the middle of August and we shipped ahead most of heavier clothing. Tomorrow we have our first really big climb which. Will take us into Galicia.
After breakfast at the hotel, our first stop before leaving Leon was the post office. We of course had to mail ahead to Santiago Paul's four new pairs of shoes which weighed would have added 5 pounds of weight just as we are reaching our point of true climbing. With the shoes off, we left Leon. It is always a tricky endeavor leaving big cities by bike. The streets are very narrow, cars going to fast for safety. The sidewalks are on option but you are usually confronted by people who stop dead in their tracks to greet that long lost friend they haven't seen since the night before. It makes for a wild ride of dodge-em.Once out of the confines of the city, riding gets easier. However, I have been starting my morning rides with a belly full of butterflies. As I start my riding, I feel much like a student who has passed a test but has to take it again and not sure if they've prepared enough (I haven't). Once I get going I start to feel better. That is until the first incline. As I put my legs into pedaling my bike up the hill, it is almost meditative. However, the words I say over and over again have absolutely nothing to do with prayer. There is a cleansing effect that happens as I emit toxins from my body and my spirit so I guess I am achieving the intent of a true pilgrim.
We went a little out of our way today following a recommended route taken by previous bike riders of the Camino.However, it did not add much in the way of enjoyment and just made our day longer than expected. The day's weather is much cooler than expected making it downright chilly in the evening as we sit having a beer outside the Cathedral and the Bishop's Palace designed by Antonio Gaudi (origin of the word gaudy). As I write, Paul is being thoroughly entertained by several older gentlemen talking with other. Every time the church bells chime, they all check their watches. We plan to head to our room to warm up as it feels more like a late fall evening than the middle of August and we shipped ahead most of heavier clothing. Tomorrow we have our first really big climb which. Will take us into Galicia.
Monday, August 06, 2007
Rest Day Comes To An End
Paul and I sit at an outdoor bar enjoying a glass of tinto under a decidedly cooler Spanish evening. While people are out strolling, it is not the crowds we experienced last night. Outdoor tables were at a premium. People circled like vultures waiting to pounce as soon as a table even looked as if it were going to be free. With a cool chill in the night air, outdoor tables are an open selection.
Today's rest day included a lot of shopping. But if you assume that it was I partaking, you would be incredibly mistaken. As what can only be described as Paul doing his best Carrie Bradshaw imitation, we hit up shoe store after shoe store, where after the spree was over, Paul had four new pairs to add to the ones he purchased in Logrono. On sale no less! Said shoes are .Paul's favorite comfort wear. They are worn by just about all the older Spanish gentleman who look forward to comfort over fashion. They are lightweight and and definitely more comfortable than the heavy leather shoes worn in business. Paul now has enough to last him should we not return to Spain for the next several years. (He did get them in several colors too!)
Today was not all about shopping. We also took a tour of the Cathedral, which is absolutely magnificent. The amazing height of the ceiling which soars straight to heaven is matched only by the stunning stained glass windows which are made of such glorious vivid design and color as to be absolutely breathe-taking. We ended our evening as always: with a fabulous dinner and wonderful bottle of wine. We strolled past the Cathedral, lit up most magnificently. We decided an ice cream was in order and then we called it a night to our well-deserved rest day.
Today's rest day included a lot of shopping. But if you assume that it was I partaking, you would be incredibly mistaken. As what can only be described as Paul doing his best Carrie Bradshaw imitation, we hit up shoe store after shoe store, where after the spree was over, Paul had four new pairs to add to the ones he purchased in Logrono. On sale no less! Said shoes are .Paul's favorite comfort wear. They are worn by just about all the older Spanish gentleman who look forward to comfort over fashion. They are lightweight and and definitely more comfortable than the heavy leather shoes worn in business. Paul now has enough to last him should we not return to Spain for the next several years. (He did get them in several colors too!)
Today was not all about shopping. We also took a tour of the Cathedral, which is absolutely magnificent. The amazing height of the ceiling which soars straight to heaven is matched only by the stunning stained glass windows which are made of such glorious vivid design and color as to be absolutely breathe-taking. We ended our evening as always: with a fabulous dinner and wonderful bottle of wine. We strolled past the Cathedral, lit up most magnificently. We decided an ice cream was in order and then we called it a night to our well-deserved rest day.
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